Jalpa Pandit

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The World Of Gemstones: A Feature On Emeralds

The EMERALD is one of the four precious stones recognized across the globe; the others being Diamonds, Rubies & Sapphires. Prized over millennia by Kings, Pharaohs, (and Cleopatra); legend has it that emeralds had the power to protect its wearer from disease and also bestow the gift of wisdom, longevity and rebirth.

Now for the tech stuff and jargon that you are here for…(ha!)

BIRTHSTONE:  Green Emeralds are a birthstone for May birthdays 

NOT JUST FAMOUS FOR ITS COFFEE: COLOMBIAN EMERALDS (and more) : More than half of the world’s emerald production comes from Colombia where there are hundreds of known emerald deposits, the most famous deposit being Muzo, renowned for its spectacular color!  There are a few other sources world over, but those from the African continent (Zambia & Zimbabwe) are gaining popularity due to the attractive shades of green that are markedly different than their Colombian cousins. 

THESE BABIES ARE DIFFICULT TO WORK WITH:  The hardness of gemstones is measured on the Mohs Scale of Hardness  and the Emerald ranks about a 7.5, making it more susceptible to scratching & breaking. In addition, what makes it trickier is that Emeralds naturally have a lot of inclusions inside them. One wrong move and the fissure or fracture can extend out to the surface and crack or break the stone!   

“JARDIN”:  The natural crystal inclusions and fissures are very common in Emeralds and the afficanodos affectionately refer to these imperfections as “Jardin,” (french for “garden”). Small inclusions do not diminish the value, in fact a vivid deep color will fetch a higher value than a flawless emerald of pale color. TBH, Jardin in the stones proves authenticity! 

ENHANCEMENTS:  Since most Emeralds have JARDIN, almost ALL are enhanced with an oil treatment using clear cedar oil that us used to fill surface cracks to enhance clarity and beauty of these gemstones. If you are in the market to purchase emeralds, please make note of the level of treatment – on a scale of none, minor, moderate to highly enhanced – it is certainly a factor that affects the price! Best to always take guidance from a Gemologist and it never hurts to get the gemstone certified by a Gem Lab. 

CARE:  Given that these green beauties are soft(er) compared to other gems, and have inconsistent inclusions; emerald jewelry should NEVER be placed in any jewelry cleaning solutions, subjected to steam cleaning and also never be immersed in an ultrasonic cleaner. The safest way to clean emeralds is with a soft brittle brush and warm, soapy water and air dried on a soft cloth. 

EMERALD FUN FACTS!

  • Although not a significant producer, the Emerald Hollow Mine in North Carolina is the only emerald mine in the world open for prospecting.

  • Since Emeralds are substantially less dense than its precious counterparts, which means that a 5 Carat Emerald will be a lot larger than a 5 carat diamond or 5 Carat Sapphire.

  • When emerald crystals are mined from the earth, the crystals are of a hexagonal shapes. When the lapidary wants to facet the stones, the square or rectangular cut minimizes the pressure the gem must undergo. This how and why the “Emerald Cut” came about which is a square or rectangular cut with angled corners!

CELEBRITY EMERALDS: 

The Chalk Emerald : One of the most famous (and finest) Colombian emeralds in the world is The Chalk Emerald at a stunning 37.8 carats with a velvety deep green color of Colombian pedigree. Legend has it that it was once the central gem of a royal necklace belonging to the Maharani of Baroda, India. The original weight was over 38 carats but it was recut and revived (!!!) to be reset in a platinum ring designed by none other than Harry Winston, Inc. This stunning piece surrounded by 15 carats of 60 pear-shaped diamonds was donated to Smithsonian Natural History Museum. museum by Mr. and Mrs. O. Roy Chalk (which is where this Emerald gets its current name from!) 

The Moghul Emerald Another celebrity Emerald is the Mogul Emerald that hails form the Indian sub continent dating back to 1695 from the reign of Emperor Aurangzeb (his father was the one that built the Taj Mahal). 10cm tall, over 217 carats and carved on both sides, one side has an elegant Arabic script prayer and the reverse is a floral design. Believed to have been mined in (you guessed it) Colombia, this piece auctioned by Christie’s of London in 2001 to an anonymous buyer for $2.2 million!! 

The Diadem of Marie Therese Duchess of Angouleme: This jewelry set belonged to Marie Therese (the oldest daughter of the infamous Queen of France Marie Antoinette). This parure was commissioned in 1819 by Louis-Antoine, Duke of Angouleme for his wife. Without getting into her tumultuous life, the diadem is highly valued not because of the use of the exceptional stones but for  the fact that is one of the few pieces that survived (in its original state) from that period. After changing several hands, it is now the property of the Louvre Museum in France, where it is displayed today. 

Maximillian Ring: Another win for the Colombian mines, this 21 + carat emerald was once worn by Mexico’s ill-fated emperor, Ferdinand Maximilian Joseph. In addition to the characteristic rich deep grass-green color of it was valued for its fine clarity and transparency, which we know is rare for larger sized emeralds. After getting moved around quite a bit, the Maximillian landed as an important gemstone into the collection of Mrs. Marjorie Merriweather Post’s (heiress to the Post cereal fortune) in 1928 . It was revived by Cartier with with sizable baguettes flanking the emerald in a platinum setting. She generously gifted this ring along with several significant pieces and it is now on display at the National Museum of Natural History. 

I hope you have enjoyed reading about these GREEN MARVELS, let me know what else you would like to read bout! XOXO JP